
The most efficient way to get past breaking waves on a shortboard. By pushing your board deep underwater, you allow the wave's energy to pass over you.
You need momentum to penetrate the water. Paddle hard as the wave approaches. Do not stop paddling until the last second.
Grab the rails near your shoulders. Push down hard with your arms, sinking the nose of the board as deep as possible. Lean your body weight forward.
As the nose goes down, use your knee or foot (foot is better for leverage) to push the tail of the board down. Your body should follow the board underwater in a scooping motion.
Once the turbulence passes overhead, angle the nose up. The buoyancy of the board will shoot you back to the surface. Resume paddling immediately.
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